Only a decade ago, bagels were practically unknown outside a few cities with traditional Jewish bakeries; now they constitute a $2.6 billion business (chart). Frozen bagels led the way in the bagelization of America, but more and more people are discovering the pleasure of a fresh bagel, thanks to the rapidly proliferating chains of retail bagel shops. “Bagels are portable, they’re nutritious, they’re cheap, they’re versatile,” says Gary Gerdemann, a spokesman for Einstein/ Noah Bagel Corp., the second biggest chain, after Bruegger’s. “People ask me if they’re a fad, and I say, “Was bread a fad?’ " Einstein/ Noah, which has 333 retail stores, expects to nearly double that number by the end of the year. Among the flavors available at many chains are chocolate chip, raspberry truffle, pumpkin and date-nut–variations so mad-eyed they make many noshers wistful. “Nobody thinks of it as an ethnic food any longer,” says Kitty Kevin, editor of Rollout!, a new-product newsletter. “There should be a bagel museum.”
Other companies are coming right along with hole-free and prestuffed bagels, but Baras expects to be well in front for at least a year. He’s contemplating other fillings–peanut butter and jelly, pizza, chopped liver, marshmallow fluff –but won’t branch out just yet. “I don’t think it’s smart right now,” he says. He’s probably right. UnHoley Bagels take some getting used to. Warmed up in the microwave, they’re soft and flavorless, like faux-rustic dinner rolls, except for the surprising and not completely welcome sensation of biting into hot cream cheese. But customers at BJ’s who sampled the bagels were enthusiastic, according to in-store surveys, offering such comments as “Excellent taste,” “Unique idea” and “Makes a great appetizer.” A bagel with a schmear as palate teaser? Only in America.
